Under Fascism, attempts were made to create an Italian style of international prominence with no success. After the war, France was again focused on reviving the haute-couture market, and the US was well on its way as the mass market leader in fast, cheap production. Italy found its niche in the middle.

The interwar years saw a profound shift in the cultural values of the Western World. Women's fashion was particularly affected, with formality taking a backseat to practicality and comfort. Gabrielle Chanel was among the first designers to not only understand this cultural shift, but to capitalize on it and build an empire in the process.