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Headline Review: ‘Magazines Begin to Sell the Fashion They Review’

3 Comments 25 September 2011

As the glossies have always credited the samples featured in their editorial spreads, and listed retailers in their “Where to Buy” sections, it only seems fitting that they would benefit from a commission or other rendition of affiliate marketing when their recommendations lead to a sale. Today’s NYTimes published an article on the plethora of glossies that are moving towards affiliate marketing models: Magazines Begin to Sell the Fashion They Review.

Fashion magazines are suddenly getting into the retailing business.

While the glossies have long had a reputation for accommodating the designers they cover, sometimes guaranteeing coverage to those who advertise in their pages, a wave of new ventures and partnerships suggests they are willing to go even further by selling the designers’ clothes.

It is a move that is raising some eyebrows in the industry, as magazines like Vogue, GQ and Esquire, struggling to survive in an online world, could potentially become competitors to stores like Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus and Barneys New York.

To be clear, it is not the magazines who are selling the fashion – they are merely referring the reader to a point of purchase in a more direct way than could happen in the past through print alone (without a direct web-link or barcode). This is essentially affiliate marketing. The logic of this content+affiliate marketing business model has been amplified in recent years with the proliferation of technologies that enable e-commerce websites to understand where their traffic is coming from, as well as technologies that enable consumers to scan samples from the pages of a magazine with smartphone apps such as RedLaser – all parts have fallen into place to capitalize on the built-in audience of trusting magazine readers, and to follow their actions from the pages of a magazine to an e-commerce site where the transactions occur.

Further, I believe that NYTimes writer Eric Wilson makes an excellent point in highlighting the fact that retailers – AND brands, I might add – have been in the content-producing game for years. Whether through the Barneys catalogs or LVMH’s www.nowness.com, there is media competition coming from all sides for the simple fact that brands and retailers need to control their brand message.

In the end, I believe that a unique form of affiliate marketing for fashion publications will be more a complimentor than a competitor to brick-and-mortar stores. They can help the department stores and boutiques understand what is selling before going to market, and can take on the riskier items and still maintain a reputation as being a beacon for fashion trends.

The only real risk I see here is one that has not yet been addressed, and that has nothing to do with competition, although it may eventually affect advertisers within the magazines. Fashion magazines and their online counterparts, like Vogue and Style.com, exist to thrill readers with the hottest looks in fashion, and also to deliver styled looks mixed from a range of samples provided by their advertisers. This serves to educate the audience on trends, and drives them to buy from advertisers, including retailers. I believe the focus on monetizing fashion recommendations may lead magazines like Vogue to dilute the high-fashion message and push items with a lower price tag or greater mass-appeal in order to drive up revenue. And THAT is where the message of high-fashion pioneering would be lost and the beacon extinguished, thus destroying a powerful tool of high-fashion marketing for brands and retailers alike.

Your Comments

3 Comments so far

  1. avatar Johanna says:

    Hm, I wonder! The very first thing I thought of when I started reading this was Mr. Porter, and how they were probably first and foremost associated with e-commerce, but they publish some really great content pieces with style advice as well (and their email newsletter provides a combination of both). I wonder where they fall in this whole game? PS I was so happy to see a post from you!

    • avatar eurbanista says:

      Thanks, Johanna! Mr. Porter and Net-a-Porter both produce amazing content AND are online retailers. Unlike Vogue, for example, both “Porter” sites are attached to warehouses and fulfillment agents (what a great title!) who execute the sale and logistics of shipping – and most importantly, they hold inventory. The magazines (like most blogs who earn money through affiliate marketing) will not hold the inventory of the brands they are reviewing, and their risk is therefore much lower.
      Once upon a time only the retailers (Mr. Porter or Barneys) were producing content solely dealing with the goods they sold. This obviously made their reviewing system biased, and so they have slightly expanded the breadth of their content to include complimentary concepts. While magazines could hardly be considered neutral reviewers of fashion because of the influence of their advertisers, they were not given incentive to “feather their own nest” by promoting products they would directly profit from, but they will be now. So, while retailers like Mr. Porter will still carry more risk from not selling inventory that Vogue ever will, publishers like Vogue risk losing credibility of being a fashion pioneer… and that is a potential landmine for the brand.

  2. avatar Johanna says:

    Wow, I had to read that a few times! Always learning over here :) Thanks for laying all of this out. I hadn’t even thought of the inventory part (derr).


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